Q: One visitor asked, "I have been offered the salvage of several thousand square feet of hardwood (maple) flooring from a gymnasium of a building that is being demolished, and would like some suggestions on how best to do this task while maintaining as much of the material as possible.
The existing floor is almost 60 years old, and while I have not been able to view the floor itself, have been lead to believe that there is almost 1/4 inch of material above the groove of the boards. Seems when they installed the original floor, rather than sand the floor smooth they flooded the floor with varnish and let it self level.
The floor was also nailed down with spiral nails, not staples as today's standard would use. Thought is to use a small pry bar to lift the board at the point of the nail, and then use a sawzall with a metal cutting bit to cut the nail, then once the floor was off, to grind the nails flat with the board. When reinstalling the board, to then stagger the nails to the middle of the joists and then reattach.
Does this sound like a plausible method for you?
I would be interested in hearing how your firm does the salvage process compared to this method."
A: I think you have the right idea, certainly. Along with a small bar, I would also take along a bigger one if available. Rather than cut the nails off and grind them, I would knock them out in one piece. Other than that, I am with you on your method. If there is 1/4 left, then it seems worth while to salvage it. I will warn you however, that this is back breaking work. If you happen to break off a little bit of the bottom part of the groove side in this endeavor, It shouldn't be a factor when re installing.
Related questions about wood floor installation:
>Is it not true that the wood should have sat in the house for a week before moving in?
>What's the best wood floor for a kitchen?
>Will I need to install a new floor, or can I salvage this one?
>What is your ballpark figure for installation of hardwood?
Types of Flooring
>Hardwood and the hardness scale?
>Where can I find ebony flooring in Toronto?
>Is it a bad idea in general to screw/nail down part of a floating laminate floor?
>What is the best wood to install in a home with a large dog?
>Should we buy the thicker engineered hardwood?
>Would wide plank flooring would be suitable in the Edmonton, Alberta region, with its cold, dry winters?
>What is the difference between a varnished, laminated and pre finished floor?
>If a pre-sanded v-groove hardwood floor is laid, buffed and varnished 3 times, how much of a 'groove' will you see/feel?
>How do I prepare my sub floor?
>Tongue and groove flooring over concrete?
>Should we remove some of the multiple layers of subfloor before installing?
>Should a water vapor barrier be put down if the hardwood flooring is to be installed over osb over a full unfinished basement? How should the flooring be laid? Parallel or perpendicular to the floor joists?
>I'm planning to install 3/4" Hardwood in our rooms, but there are some uneven spots. Is there any kind of leveling compound we can use?
>Do I have to remove the old flooring in the kitchen for the transition to the rest of the house without having to put a subfloor under the rest of the house to bring it up to level with the kitchen floor or can I use some sort of transition strip?
>I understand that we have to install solid hardwood over 3/4" plywood. I'd like to install the plywood now and paint it. Can I later put hardwood down over the painted plywood?
> I installed 3/4 OSB directly over a concrete slab, above grade, with a vapor barrier Rosen paper and Nailed down 3/4 Maple. What problems can I look forward to?
>Is it possible to put something overtop the particle board before putting down carpeting or hardwood to help with sound proofing?
>Is it good to put a new oak floor over an old one, or is it better to tear up the old one and put new plywood boards and then the new oak floor?
>Can we lay the plywood over the parquet? (And a bit about bamboo!)
>Should I install laminate over hardwood?
>How can I level out the subfloor with the cement lips for installation?
>How do I correct the uneven, downhill slant in my floor before installing?
Ripping out Old Floors & Salvaging
>How do I remove an old floor?
>I want to salvage some oak flooring from a house that is being torn down.What is the best approach to avoid spliting and cracking of the flooring?
>Is there anyway to remove and relocate 3/8 strip flooring?
>How do I tear up these floors without damaging them further?
>Should I remove the glue on the parquet I tore out before I install it somewhere else?
>How do we remove the plywood sheeting and tiles that are on top of our hardwood?
>My foyer has 1/4 inch plywood glued down over the old hardwood. How do I remove it?
>I'm in the process of removing laminate floor titles that had been glued on oak hardwood floors in the dining room. eventually, I'll be getting the floors in the whole house sanded and refinished, but until then, is there aneasy way to get the sticky glue residue off without harming the wood? Or canI at least put something down that won't be a problem come sanding time butwill keep me from sticking every time I walk on it?
>How do we get the old lanolium off the floor to get to the wood?
>How can we remove carpeting which was glued to wooden steps about 30 years ago?
>Installing damaged salvaged maple flooring?
>How do I remove tile to install a hardwood floor?
>How and how long do I dry this salvaged maple?
Radiant Heat and Sound Proofing
>Can I install hardwood over radiant heat?
>We have some concern about noise/sound insulation. what is the best product to use? How should it be installed?
>I would like to have my floors redone so there will no more uneven floor and sound proof a little in the process. What do you suggest here?